Using Herbicides For Weed Control

Using Herbicides For Weed Control


Weed control is necessary throughout the year, as there is no specific season for growth of weeds. Effective control of weeds does not mean blatant use of strong herbicides. Doing so can have the adverse effect of damaging your lawn to an irreparable state. In addition, it can cause ecological imbalance, which have a negative impact on the community in the long run.

Herbicides can be categories into two types. The first type is pre-emergent and the second type is post-emergent. As the name suggests, pre-emergent herbicides are used before weeds germinate and grow. On the other hand, post-emergent herbicides are used to kill existing weeds. Proper usage of the correct type of herbicides is critical to effective weed control.

Depending on where you live, February to April of the year is considers a good time to start your weed control campaign. You should start with pre-emergent herbicides first. This type of herbicides can be used in conjunction with fertilizers and can last for about sixty days. The actual duration may vary as it depends on other factors such as the amount of rainfall. The more rain there is, the shorter the effective period.

As herbicide is a form of chemical, you need to read and follow the instructions stated on the product label. Never use it in excess of what is being specified. It could destroy your lawn or hinder the growth of your lawn grass if you do not follow the instructions closely. For safety purpose, make sure you put on gloves when handling such chemicals.

After sixty days, you can apply post-emergent herbicides together with your fertilizers. This should help you get rid of weeds that have taken root in your lawn. Monitor the situation for the next sixty days. You should be able to see some visible improvements. Otherwise, apply another round of post-emergent herbicides with your fertilizers and monitor the situation again. If the situation does not improve, apply another round of herbicides in the fall season.

To make your weed control campaign more effective, you should also learn how to take care of your lawn with a combination of proper mowing, fertilization and watering techniques. Alternatively, you can also consider engaging a professional lawn care service to advise you on how to improve your weed control efforts.

Copper Rain Chain Accentuating Beauty


Combining aesthetics and practicality is a rare sight. This vision is visible in the concept generated in Japan hundred years back in the form of rain chain. Known as 'kusari doi' in Japanese, rain chain provides a beautiful and functional channel for rainwater. It is an ornate and exquisite garden accessory that is in use since hundreds of years and has been modified in terms of designs and styles of contemporary society. Rain chains guide rainwater into large pots for household and garden purposes. These chains have emerged as decorative alternatives to the downspout or rain gutter pipe and are visible almost everywhere in homes and temples.The beauty of the chains lies not only in the designs of cups and links but in the cascading water. The rain chain accentuates the ambience around the home with its attractive designs and delightful sound.

Chains made of copper are much more beautiful and functional as copper is a highly durable metal. Its resistance against corrosion makes it in high demand among users. Copper rain chain guides rainwater into large barrels for using the water later. This makes it a decorative and functional alternative to the downspout or rain gutter pipe.Copper is the most common and useful material for fabricating rain chains as it oxidizes over time and turns into a delightful verdigrises patina. The rich blue-green patina marks beauty even on dry days. This makes rain chains highly artistic adding aesthetic appeal of a landscape. The flowing water and its sound create an aura that is plain extraordinary. Highly attractive and unique, copper rain chains exhibits a beautiful display on the pleasant rainy day. Water from the roof passing over each copper hammered bowl is collected in the large barrels for multiple purposes. This makes rain chain emphasize the notion of rainwater harvesting. It is the one of the useful means of saving water coming from its natural source. People use rain chain as a garden accessory that brings in mesmerizing sense of motion and tranquility. A visual pleasure and delight is placed right outside the window to enjoy rains without stepping out of the home. The sound of soft tinkling of individual droplets and the cascading water is a treat to ears. Moreover, people living in freezing temperatures can experience a sight of snow melt away during sunny days. The snow accumulates during night leaving a beautiful and attractive view of ice formations to start a fresh day.

Rare Orchids – An Overview


Orchids are one of the most ancient plants still in existence. Their life began in primordial times, with the species being highly adaptable so that the orchid could grow and change as the Earth itself did. Rare orchids are being protected as different eco-systems collapse.

With their ingrown sense of survival, the orchid lives in every climate, excluding solid ice. They do not necessarily need soil, as they can grow symbiotically in nature. Orchids will live in trees, mountains, bogs, grasslands, rocks, and forests. The roots of orchids will grow in the air, as well as laterally. Today there are over 35,000 orchid species living in every corner of the world. If the orchid doesn't have what it needs, the plant is clever enough to make the world around it create certain living conditions. Ants have been coerced into living with the orchid so that the acidic content can be put to use within the plant. Since orchids have existed before the birds and the bees, they have found a way to mimic pollinators to trick them into propagating.

Sometimes living in such harmony can become difficult for rare orchids. Orchids have become rare due to the care they need to thrive subsiding or the care is overdone. Other reasons such as deforestation and/or imminent extinction allow orchids to be added to the rare list.

Following are some examples of rare orchids.

  • Ladyslipper orchids grow wild in Britain and have been harvested so much they are now on the verge of extinction.
  • Phal Amboinensis flava is an albino orchid discovered thirty years ago in Singapore and whose stems grown indefinitely.
  • Maxilliara Mombarchoenis and Epidendrum are found only on the Nicaraguan Mombacho Mountaintops.
  • Bulbophyllum Hamelini is suffering from Madagascar's deforestation.
  • Fly Orchids disappear in the Netherlands every time their forests get thick.
  • Habenaria Psycodes is located in the South Appalachians and is rarely seen.

More recently in 2007, in an ancient tropical forest in Vietnam's Green Corridor, a new orchid species was found. The specialty of this species is that they are leafless. Not only that, but they have absolutely no chlorophyll or green pigmentation. The forests of the Annamites breed many other rarities, as well. In 2003, it was reported that in dense evergreen forests of Similipal, Orissa there are housed 93 species of orchids. Among these lives the rare orchid Goodyera Hisipada.

On the other side of the globe, in Washington State, lives the Phantom Orchids. Leafless and completely white, the plant will stay dormant for up to seventeen years after blooming just once. Development and logging is destroying the Phantom Orchid's habitat and is a protected species in Canada.

More than 3,000 orchid hybrids are created annually. Sizes, shapes, and colors abound in the orchid families. There are certainly enough orchids to thrive on the planet. However, some rare orchid species will continue to dwindle and meet extinction if mankind continues to destroy their habitats. Some rare orchids are dying out not because of man, but due to low propagation. The smaller specie classes will need to grow to continue.

As you can see, the rare orchids are far outweighed by the sheer number of living orchids. Who knows - with the brain that these plants have, maybe the devolution of the rare orchids will stop and arise in evolution as the orchid yet again adapts to its ever-changing world.

Start More Plants With Cloning Kits


An aeroponics system allows you to grow plants without the expense of needing a growing medium. Plants are grown in the air using this very efficient growing system. Pumps are used to create a misting spray of nutrient solution that dampens the plant roots; this feeds the plants and, combined with the large amount of oxygen the roots are exposed to, causes the plants to reach maturity very quickly. An aeroponic cloning system uses the same apparatus as an aeroponics system, with one exception. Cuttings are suspended in the air in an aeroponic cloning system, and instead of a nutrient mist, a rooting hormone is sprayed over the cut end of the plant material. Using an aeroponic cloning system results in those cuttings emitting roots in only five to ten days. After roots are formed, the plants can be grown on in an aeroponics system, hydroponics system or other gardening system that uses soil as a growing medium. Plant cloning kits such as these aeroponic models utilize several pieces of equipment.

The pump where the mist originates is a very important component, as is the cloning tray that holds the cuttings at the proper height in the air. A clear plastic or glass covering over the plants helps to create a humid environment that is conducive to root formation in these cloning kits. Air pumps and diffusers are important for keeping the entire system properly oxygenated. You will also need rooting hormone for use in plant cloning kits. This is sold in liquid or powder form, and is typically diluted in a certain amount of water. The hormone can also be used in a powder form, but it is more difficult to get even coverage of the cutting with a powder than it is with a liquid, and thus another advantage of using cloning kits that take advantage of aeroponic misting. All sorts of plants can be replicated in cloning kits, including hardwoods and succulents, so that you can produce the popular plants that your customers want every spring.
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Earth-friendly Lawns


Your lawn shouldn't be bad for your yard. Yet much of the weed killer, fertilizer and turf builder people use on grass can sometimes be harsh on other plants and on the environment as a whole.

Fortunately, there are chemical-free ways to keep your lawn looking great. For instance, many homeowners add turfgrass that naturally resists insects and disease to their lawn. Called zoysia grass, the durable plant spreads into a permanent, perennial lawn.

Its deep, vigorous root system rarely needs watering and the lawn is dense enough that it prevents crabgrass and other weeds from germinating. That means homeowners don't need to spread toxic weed killers. Additionally, because its roots run so deep, the turfgrass does not need heavy doses of fertilizer.

The turfgrass is sold as individual starter plant plugs, rather than as seed or sod, meaning it can be planted into bare ground or existing lawns.

Learn About Greenhouse Plastic And The Benefits


Greenhouse plastic is mainly responsible for maintaining a hothouse effect within a greenhouse. Greenhouse plastic creates a warm and suitable growing environment that allows various types of plants to cultivate beautifully. It creates an enclosure that protects plants from the harmful ultraviolet rays of the sun while taking advantage of its natural warmth and light. The filtered environment produced by greenhouse plastic makes it possible for garden enthusiasts to grow luscious plants like vegetables and flowers in the cold dead of winter.

Greenhouse plastic is explicitly designed to resist wear and tear unlike conventional construction plastic that cannot filter ultraviolet rays from the sun. Greenhouse plastic is durable due to its knitted design that allows it to be cut and sized to meet the required length for a structure without fraying, ripping or tearing. The material can easily be framed around any greenhouse opening like a vent, door or windows.

Greenhouse plastic is the preferred covering of most garden enthusiasts compared to other types of greenhouse covering. At the same time costs are greatly reduced when greenhouse plastic is used since it lightweight and does not require heavy-duty structural framing. The diffusion of light into a structure constructed of greenhouse plastic is as good as that of a glass greenhouse.

Types of Greenhouse Plastic

Greenhouse plastic films are generally made of three types of plastics namely, PVC or polyvinyl chloride, PE or polyethylene and copolymers. Although, there are other types of plastic used these three are most widely used among all.

Polyethylene greenhouse plastic is available in two types, the utility grade and the commercial grade greenhouse plastic. Utility grade polyethylene greenhouse plastic is sold at local hardware stores and generally stays in good condition for practically a year. Commercial grade polyethylene greenhouse plastic last longer that utility grade PE up to eighteen months and is treated with ultraviolet inhibitors that filter out ultraviolet rays.

Copolymers are more durable and last up to three years. Innovative additives introduced into greenhouse plastic enable it to mimic the same effects of a glass greenhouse at considerably reduced costs. Polyvinyl chloride is more expensive compared to polyethylene however this type of greenhouse plastic can last up to five years. However PVC greenhouse plastic requires regular washing to prevent dust buildup from the air. It is also sold in smaller sheets of four feet by six feet wide.

How to Attach Greenhouse Plastic to Frame

Once the frame has been built it is time to put on the greenhouse plastic film to enclose the entire structure. The plastic film can either be made of polyethylene, copolymers or polyvinyl chloride depending the preference of the owner. But as much as possible choose a greenhouse plastic that is resistant to ultraviolet rays in order to make the most of the structure. Before laying the greenhouse plastic covering on the frame it is important to mask the joints of the frames with several rounds of tape or a rubber material to prevent it from puncturing the covering.

The greenhouse plastic film can be secured in place using a staple gun. A more rigid construction using 1" by 2" wood strips and wood screws can also be used to secure the greenhouse plastic film in place. The wood strips are attached to the frame so that the greenhouse plastic film does not come in direct contact with the frame.

A popular technique used by nurseries is a double-walled construction for better insulation within the structure that adds up to considerable energy savings. Two sheets of plastic are layered and framed leaving a small amount of space in between about five to eight inches wide. Air is introduced into the framed plastics that produce a dead air zone, which can efficiently insulate the entire greenhouse. Various tapes like poly patching tape and batten tape can be used to secure greenhouse plastic into place.

Poly patching tape is constructed from UV protected acrylic along with the adhesive to protect the greenhouse plastic from weakening on contact with it. This type of tape can be used to patch holes and rips that may happen to the plastic film. Its excellent holding strength and wide tape make an ideal for securing the plastic film to the frame of the greenhouse. On the other hand batten tape can be fastened the plastic film using staples or tacks to the greenhouse structure. It is also made of heavy gauge vinyl that is also UV protected.

Plastic Plant Pots Allow Healthy Plant Growth


Although there are a wide variety of planters available in the market, the plastic plant pots offer certain advantages that make them better than other varieties that include terracotta or ground clay planters. For instance, the planters in question are lightweight and thereby you can anytime shift them to another place. In case you want to shift your gardens indoors during heavy rains or outdoors when it shines then you may be able to do so without any difficulty. You will not have to ask anybody else for assistance. With heavy weight ground clay planters this may be trickier for you. Even if you will be able to move them to the desired place, you will have to ask somebody else for the help. However, the biggest advantage that plastic plant pots offer is the healthy growth of plants and trees. In comparison to terracotta or ground clay planters they retain water for a longer period of time making it easier for the plants that require more water or moisture. This further helps you as you will not have to have bother about watering the lush every now and then. Especially if you are to grow plants such as yellow hibiscus that may need more water to grow, plastic planters will make a good choice.

They will not let the water drain through pores (like garden clay planters do) and will keep the soil wet, which will maintain the desired moisture levels intact as well as will allow you to be worry free. Imagine watering such plants at least twice a day (or in case three times a day). No wonder for every gardener it is important to see that his plants are getting ample water. In places where there is less rainfall, you may have to make up the difference by watering the lush manually. This may take more of your time causing your water bills to rise. By opting for plastic plant pots you may not have to worry about any such thing as you will not end up watering them as many times as you would be if you will plant the lush in other varieties of planters. This is not all. With plastic plant pots bought from renowned UK based distributors you will be more than happy to have a colourful decorative garden. For the reason that they are available in a variety of colours, sizes, shapes and design you can have them to add a splash of colour to the gardens as well as to make your gardens look splendidly elegant.

Harvesting And Drying Herbs


In most cases herbs are used fresh, but there are times when it?s handy to have a supply of dried herbs on hand. It?s not difficult to dry herbs, but it is critical to pick them at the right time. The oils and other chemicals, which make a herb valuable, in most cases, are at their best at only one stage of the plant?s growth. Medicinal herbs, in particular, can lose much of their value if harvested too early or late.

HARVESTING HERBS
Foliage, flowers, fruit, seed, bark, and even roots, rhizomes and bulbs, are harvested from herbs. No matter which part you harvest, the basic procedure is usually the same:

  1. Cut off the required parts with clean, sharp tools (avoid bruising).
  2. Harvest in cool weather.
  3. Remove as much unwanted material (eg: soil, insects, etc.) while still outside.
  4. Clean the material as soon as possible, removing damaged, dead or marked tissue, and any foreign material including insects and soil. Avoid washing, which might remove oils. Avoid using diseased material.
  5. Process the material as soon as possible (eg. distillation, drying, etc.), to minimise loss of oils or other chemicals.

Harvesting leaves
Most herb leaves are used fresh, although drying is used to ensure supply when leaves are not available, such as out of season. For most perennial herbs, the leaves are best-harvested before flowering, as they can lose up to 60% of their vegetative mass once the flowers form (e.g. mint).

Those herbs, which are used for both flowers and leaves (e.g. chamomile for use as a tea or scented geraniums and lavender for use in pot pourris) should be harvested when the plants are at the peak of their flowering.

They should ideally be cut mid-morning, after any dew has gone, on a clear, dry day. They are best dried in a shaded position. Air drying is normally adequate.

Harvesting roots
Roots are normally dug in autumn and dried whole. Extra large roots may be sliced first then the slices are dried. Artificial heat is desirable for root drying.

Harvesting seeds
With most seed harvesting it is best to harvest in the early stages of ripening to avoid unnecessary losses from seed drop, and also to preserve maximum oil content and colour in the harvested product. Seeds are ready to harvest when a slight tap on the seed head causes the seed to fall. Seeds harvested for culinary use may also be used for planting the next crop, provided viability is good.

Shade drying is preferable; though in commercial production, plants are often mowed then field cured or ripened on canvas sheets.

Harvesting material for medicinal use
The demand for pure, clean, properly handled material is high, both in Australia and throughout many other parts of the world. It is critical that the herbs are of the highest quality and are picked at the optimum stage of production. LEAVES should ideally be collected on clear days, mid-morning, after the dew has dried. For most medicinal plants, harvest the leaves when the plant is starting to flower. Leaves of biennial plants are best collected in the second year of growth. To dry, spread the leaves out on a clean dry surface. Turn occasionally until thoroughly dry. Remove stems from the leaves and only keep those leaves which have retained their natural colour.

FLOWERS should be collected immediately after they open. Dry the same way as for leaves and only retain those that keep their natural colour.

BULBS should be collected immediately after the leaves of the plant die back. Remove the outer scales of the bulb, slice it, then dry it using artificial heat.

BARKS are commonly collected in autumn or spring. It is normally the inner bark which is required (remove the outer bark first). Most barks should be dried in sunlight (but not wild cherry).

SEEDS should be gathered on ripening (but before the seeds are expelled or fruits are eaten). Larger, fully developed seeds are the most useful.

HANDLING FRESH HERBS AFTER HARVEST
Once picked, most fresh herbs deteriorate quickly unless properly handled. They will quickly wilt, and lose colour, essential oils and other aromatic compounds. This deterioration can be slowed in a number of ways:
? Plants grown under optimum temperature and soil moisture conditions don't deteriorate as fast. In other words the healthier and more vigorous the plant is when harvested, the longer it will last.
? If harvested when the aromatic compounds, oils, etc are at optimum levels, deterioration is slower. In some plants, including rosemary and sage, this is just before flowering; for other plants the optimum harvest time may be at a different stage of the plant's growth.
? A 10oC reduction in the temperature of the harvested herb will generally increase its storage life by 3 to 4 times.
? Most fresh herbs are best stored at refrigerator temperatures of around 1 - 4oC. Some herbs (eg. watercress and basil) are sensitive to chilling and should not be stored at this low a temperature (around 5 oC to 6oC would be preferable).
? Harvesting your herbs in the coolest part of the morning will also help get them down to storage temperature more quickly.
? Do not store at temperatures below 1oC as damage due to freezing will occur.
? Water loss is reduced if high humidity is maintained around the fresh herb - do this with film wraps. You do not want humidity too high though. If condensation develops on plant tissues, the humidity is too high and breather holes in the plastic will be needed otherwise the herb may rot.
? Fresh herbs are often very soft and can be readily damaged during harvesting (e.g. mint, basil and coriander). This makes them more prone to moisture loss, to discolouring and microbial infection. Careful handling during harvest to reduce damage will prolong their storage life.

DRYING HERBS
Anyone can dry herbs. All you need is a cool, preferably dark, reasonably well ventilated room. Your harvest is simply tied in bunches and hung upside down from the ceiling (or even curtain rods). Don't do this in a room which will steam up (ie. avoid kitchens and bathrooms), and try to find a relatively dark place as direct sunlight can reduce oil content.

In very humid climates, bunches will take longer to dry and may develop fungal growths. To minimise such problems be sure to use a well-ventilated room (a fan may be helpful), keep the bunches smaller and allow room for air to move between bunches.

After drying, foliage can be stripped and either used or stored in sealed, dry containers. Roots (and sometimes other parts) are often ground into a powder after drying. Containers should be labelled with the name of the plant and when it was harvested to avoid any confusion.

Oven drying
Oven drying greatly hastens the drying process. Preheat the oven to 50oC. Place the herbs on brown paper on oven racks and poke some slits in the paper to increase air movement. The oven door should be left slightly open to allow moisture to escape. Leave the herbs for one hour, before turning and leaving for another hour. By the time they are taken out of the oven, they should be crisp and dry with reasonable colour.

Microwave drying
This is the fastest drying method. Place the herbs between paper towels and microwave them on high for 1-2 minutes, depending on how high the herbs? moisture content. It may take a few practice runs to determine the right time period for drying using a microwave.

HARVEST OF SELECTED HERBS
Basil: Cut stems close to the ground about flowering time, then treat like mint. Regrowth will provide one or two additional crops in a season.
Chervil: Fresh leaves can be harvested and used like parsley. Seeds can also be used for culinary purposes (e.g. flavouring vinegar).
Fennel: Foliage is simply cut, dried, then crumbled. Seed can also be harvested.
Fenugreek: Fruits picked as soon as ripe, before seed pods shatter. Seeds are shelled or threshed from pods, then dried using artificial heat.
Lemon Verbena: Leaves are picked individually and dried.
Lovage: Leaves are picked while young, thin and tender, then dried. Roots are dug in late autumn of the second year, washed, sliced then dried
Mint: Shoots are cut just before flowering on a dry day and air-dried in shaded conditions. Leaves are stripped after drying and stems discarded.
Parsley: Foliage is handled like mint. Seed heads are harvested on maturity and laid on a dry surface, dried, then beaten or thrashed to obtain seed. Roots are occasionally dug (autumn of second year) and dried.
Rue: Used mainly fresh, but may be dried.
Sage: Tender herbaceous parts can be cut and handled like mint. Only one cut should be done in the first year, but two or three each year after that. Plants become increasingly woody over the years, and are usually replaced after 5 to 6 years.
Summer Savoury: Cut at ground level when flowering starts, and treat like mint.
Sweet Marjoram: Normally used fresh, but can be fried.
Tansy: Cut in full bloom. Air dry leaves and flowers in shade. Discard stems after drying.
Thyme: Cut when flowering and air dry. Flowers and leaves can be powdered or chopped…discard coarse stems. Two or three harvests in a season can normally be made.
Winter Savoury: Cutting stimulates growth ? normally cut twice or more each year.

Top Reasons Why Temporary Shelters Are Imperative For A Marathon Event?


A lot of outdoor events like marathons are very popular in hot seasons like summer and enough preparations ensure that the entire event is successful. You need to ensure that there is a form of shelter where people can get some kind of shade from the hot sun.Temporary shelters should be set up at the start of the marathon event, finish point and along the route the race is planned to undertake. Since a marathon is expected to run over a long distance, the shelter along the race route can be used to store water for those participating in the marathon. Also, those who are injured or have to pull out because of various reasons can be taken care of in the shelter.Medical personnel are usually found at this kind of eve because it can be very draining and most people may need medical attention afterward. The shelter can be set aside as a first aid clinic where the runners can be treated where some even have medical fixtures and portable beds. The shelters for medical personnel should be set up at different locations along the race route. They can also be used to hold the organizers, the press, officials and other personalities attending the event. For local marathons, you may not expect as many people but the event still needs shelter because the marathon usually takes time to be completed. Marathons are usually held on public roads which have to be closed which means that there is no other kind of shelters.Therefore, the organizers have to set up some kind of temporary shelter for the event. Depending on the use, the size of the shelters will differ to ensure that it can sufficiently serve its purposes.

Most organizers opt to hire shelters rather than buy because this is an event that is held once in a while. There are lots of companies that provide renting services for different kinds of temporary shelters. It is important to compare different companies based on the prices and services offered to ensure you get a good deal. For instance, some renting companies will not only rent out the shelter but will provide people who will set them up for you at the locations you have specified. This means that all you have to do is select the shelters you want, make your payments and leave the rest to the service provider.Make sure that the company you settle for has quality shelters and a good client service policy. You should inspect the shelters that you have ordered before you make payments and sign the contract. Having a poorly set up shelter that comes down during the marathon event is not only embarrassing but will create a very bad impression on the event organizers. You can ask the service provider which other events they have rented shelters to and ask around to find out if the services were satisfactory. If you are not sure where to start, you can check online where you can find reviews about the service provider.

Choose The Perfect Garden Greenhouse


When choosing a garden greenhouse there are several things to consider. What style will look best in your garden? What weather factors should you take into consideration? What kind of plants do you want to grow there? Do you want your garden greenhouse to be freestanding or do you want to join it onto another building?

A freestanding garden greenhouse has the advantage of getting light from all sides, but your garden might not have room for such a structure. Lean-to greenhouses have the advantage of better support if you live in a place with strong winds which usually come from the same direction, such as a coastal property. If you live in a generally windy area you should also consider selecting a garden greenhouse with sturdy twin-wall panels as opposed to poly-film greenhouse covering - popular on many designs.

When selecting a garden greenhouse for particular plants you?ll need to consider how much light those plants need and how tall they?ll grow. Some plants can be trained round across the roof of your garden greenhouse to give them extra growing space, but others will need a garden greenhouse with tall walls.

Some people choose to install a garden greenhouse so that they can enjoy their favorite fruits and vegetables in an inhospitable climate, while others enjoy growing exotic flowers. If you?re in the latter group, you may prefer a garden greenhouse with strong aesthetic appeal, something which will make an attractive centerpiece in your garden. A garden greenhouse doesn?t need to be a simple glass shed - it can be a beautiful thing in its own right. Keep in mind though, that the clearer the greenhouse panels (such as glass), the less beneficial diffused light will be available for your plants.

Whatever type of garden greenhouse you choose, you?ll find that using it adds an extra dimension to your gardening experience. It?ll give you something to do all year round, whatever the weather, and will greatly increase your gardening options. Your garden greenhouse won?t just be for the plants - it?ll be somewhere you enjoy relaxing.